Recently I have discovered that sharp acceleration will cause a chittering sound similar to that of a bug. It seems to be coming from somewhere under the back of the engine compartment. Accelerating will cause the sound to increase in frequency. When the speed is constant, the sound disappears. It does not appear when applying brakes or when naturally decelerating.
I recently got an oil change thinking it was simply low oil pressure besides the fact that I needed one, but that had no effect. Revving the engine in park does not produce the noise. All other engine noise is smooth, so I don' t think it' s an internal problem. I have checked for debris in the wheels and on the driveshaft, but other than that I am out of ideas.
Kelly answered 4 years ago. Dave answered 4 years ago. I have the exact same problem. I have a mechanician checked it. He said it came from the transmission. Did you solve the problem? Any suggestion?
David answered 2 years ago. Had the same issue and found that the trouble code was P, which has to do with the EGR Valve and related systems. After plugging it back in, the noise went away and I was able to clear the trouble code. The DPFE Sensor on our cars is located at the very back of the engine on the passenger side just in front of the transmission dipstick. It has an electrical connector and two tubes facing downward that should have hoses attached. It seems to be coming from I am about to purchase an 03 PI from a family member.
It Runs great untill u put u put ur foot into it. I hear a weird noise when I turn the switch over in my crown Victoria nd it won't start the battery is good as well as the starter nd the alternator all wiring seems to be in tack.
My Heat wouldn't change to cool but when I pressed the buttons the code said but when I turned the car on my air started working but I can hear a clucking noise behind the climate control.
On my Crown Victoria, when I turn off the windshield wipers it makes this horrible noise like a loud vibration. I can only get it to stop if I turn the wiper on and let it stay on.Shortly after acceleration, the car begins to make a rattling sound. I was told it may be the heat shield, an exhaust leak, or muffler. Yes, a loose heat shield, exhaust leak, damaged muffler or catalytic converter, or even a faulty engine mount may all contribute to a rattling noise.
The exhaust system and motor mounts need to be inspected for contact issues. You may want to enlist the help of a mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will have the tools and training to correct this rattling noiseand prevent it from returning in the future.
Q: Car rattles after accelerating asked by Abigail H. James R. Randy Bobzien Automotive Mechanic. Thank James. Was this answer helpful?
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No spark from ignition coil by Cody W. Can a Ford Explorer battery and and alternator go into a Ford F? Car bogging down in gear by Kenny A. Home Questions. Year I don't know. What others are asking Car sometimes won't accelerate but it will rev Hi there: The symptoms you're describing can be caused by multiple issues within the vehicle's driveline including; transmission, transmission linkage, or the front transaxle. In some instances, it's an indication of low transmission fluid or damage to hydraulic lines that Read more.Hello my crown victoria keeps stumbling when accelerating with the gas peddle down about an inch.
On heavy acceleration - it's not a problem. Only when casually pulling out. What to do next? Thanks cliff in Maine. Robert answered 11 years ago. Rusty answered 11 years ago. Jeff answered 11 years ago. Right after your engine air filter is your MAF mass air flow sensor. There may or may not be a screen in front of it, but there will be a wire running across the middle of the opening. If there is any dirt, oil, water on the MAF it will cause your issue and not set a code.
What you had going on with the EGR system was probably not related to this issue, but would affect your emissions. Jason answered 11 years ago. I owned an crown vic interceptor which had the exact problem. It would "stumble" sometimes at idle or like you said, pulling out. Normally I would gas it to overcome the stumbling up to 10mph or so. I still had the problem.Lincoln town car Rattling\ticking noise. Is the lifter valve making this noise?
After further inspection of the throttle body, it seemed the catch where the diaphragm would stop the valve travel was gapped too much. Without applying gas pedal pressure the throttle body "should" maintain proper idle. For some reason our cars were notorious for stumbling. I know it sounds like jerry rigging but its effective.
But I always suspected one other thing, the coil packs. You have two of them, and I have heard sometimes they lose idle charge capacity which would produce improper spark, thus also creating the stumbling. It is an easy install at Hope this helps and respond to me if you need further help. I am about to purchase an 03 PI from a family member. It Runs great untill u put u put ur foot into it. Ray answered 6 years ago. I had the exact same problem. Your answer is here.
You need a new idle air control valve.Evermotion ambulance
They get gummed up around k or more. Replaced mine and never had a problem since. If your vic starts and stalls and sputters its definitely the idle air control valve on the throttle body.
Good luck! Jonathan answered 6 years ago. They may have broke the flare some at the exhaust manifold egr tube connecter with the vavle change.My husband said our car is making a 'gurgling' noise when he acelerates. We took it to the dealer and after having it a day, they say they've ruled out problems with the engine after changing the oil, which they said was lower than normal.
My fear is something is wrong with the trans.
Any idea what parts could be making noise on acceleration if not the transmission? Thanks in advance. We have to wait until tomorrow to hear any more and I wondered if anyone here had any ideas what it could be. He says it sounded like "water going down a drain"- and that it was definitely a new noise he hadn't heard before.
They were able to hear it at the dealership and again said they'd get back to us tomorrow, I'm just trying not to panic thinking how much it's going to cost to fix it. Heard back from the dealer finally, they said the PCM module needed to be calibrated, and there was a dirty sensor!
Thanks to everyone who replied,so much. It really helped me get through the waiting!!! Are you certain it is not spark knock he is hearing? Maybe a valve rattle? Some rattle is normal under load on a pushrod engine such as the one in your Crown Vic. But if it is excessive it could be a vacuum leak, low fuel pressure, or most common is a dirty Mass Air Flow sensor.
I would suggest that it is low enough on coolant to have air in the heater core. This makes exactly that noise on acceleration. It simply needs to be filled, and possibly one hose removed briefly from the heater core with the engine running to purge the air from it.
Then, the cause of the low coolant should be identified, or it will re-occur. The noise is a simple fix, the low coolant may be harder When the radiator started going bad on my Oldsmobile I heard a bunch of weird gurgling noises coming out of the plastic coolant reservoir. Could also be brakes. Update: He says it sounded like "water going down a drain"- and that it was definitely a new noise he hadn't heard before. Update 2: Heard back from the dealer finally, they said the PCM module needed to be calibrated, and there was a dirty sensor!
Answer Save. Favorite Answer. Either way, I hope this helps you and relax!! Joe L Lv 4.Recruitment qatar accra
Still have questions? Get your answers by asking now.The rear differential of a Ford Crown Victoria supports the weight of the car and transfers the engine power to the road. The rear end consists of a complex arrangement of gears and axles that seldom need any maintenance. However, the rear end will often make noise when it is going bad, and if you can determine what the noise is and what it means, this can save you from unnecessary repairs.
Drive the vehicle on different road surfaces. Rough concrete, asphalt and dirt all make different sounds when driven across. Driving on a different type of road can quickly show if the road surface is the cause of the noise. Road noise will not change if the car is accelerating, decelerating or coasting. Rotate the tires from front to rear and road test the car to see if the noise changes. Tire noise may be mistaken for rear axle noise even though the noisy tires may be located on the front.
Check the tires for contact with the car body. Tires that are unevenly worn may produce vibrations that seem to originate elsewhere on the car. Temporarily inflate the tires to 50 psi and test drive the vehicle. Tire noise will be altered by the increase in tire pressure, while rear end noise will not. After testing, reduce the tire pressure to the manufacturer's recommendation.
Check the front wheel bearings for noise. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise that may be confused with rear end noise.
Test drive the vehicle and lightly apply the brakes while holding the car speed steady. If the noise is reduced or goes away, then the front bearings may need to be replaced. Place the car in neutral and apply the parking brake. Start the engine and run the engine speed up and down while listening for noises. If a similar noise is produced with the car parked, then it may be caused by the engine or transmission and not the rear axle. Test drive the vehicle. With the vehicle coasting, shift into neutral and listen for noises.
If the rear end produces a vibration or growl that continues with the car coasting and the transmission in neutral, the rear bearings are suspect. A bad wheel bearing will cause a knock or click about every two revolutions of the rear wheel. Park the car and chock the front tire. Jack up one rear wheel at time.
Rotate the tire by hand and listen for grinding, squeaking or popping noises coming from the wheel bearing. A bad bearing can be felt with the bare hand as a rough resistance to the turning of the wheel.It comes up instantly, not slowly. After the engine has been run, the oil pressure comes up within a second the rest of the day.
No rattling Does the oil pump have to stay primed? Is there a check valve in the oil pump intake? The pump has been checked ok by mechanic for pressure. Any suggestions? Do you change the oil yourself? Whether the answer is yes or no, a good anti drain-back valve in the oil filter is a must. If this rattle cropped up recently, I suggest that you install a new, quality, oil filter, top off the oil and see what happens. Lots of information about maintaining and troubleshooting your car can be found at www.
Chattering noise on acceleration
I get a couple of seconds of rattle if I get a bum filter that has a weak anti-drainback valve. Of course the engine has a quarter-million miles on it too, which may be contributing to the problem. Wix seems to make a pretty good filter. Good luck. It talks about an engine knock that dissappears after the engine is fully warmed up. Your local Mercury dealer has probably done some of these and can maybe shed more light on it.
Thanks, I Needed That! Who Did That? The Oil and Filter has been changed and the problem has gone away… Must have been the filter…. Take Em. The temp affects the viscoity of the oil. Of course, when all else fails, turn up the radio. Beadsandbeads July 5,pm 3. Chances are no damage is being done, but I think I would change out the oil filter. It should be an easy change if we are right about the drain back valve, since those filters are usually on top of the engine and don't tend to leak out lots of oil when you change them.
What does it take to get stars around here? I thought my answer was pretty darned good, eh? Was that a good answer or what? Anybody listening? The Oil and Filter has been changed and the problem has gone away… Must have been the filter… Thanks again….Rattling noise during acceleration can be caused by several different but common failures, including loose heat shields, bad belt pulleys and ignition pinging.
Regardless of the fault, you must identify and correct the problem quickly -- otherwise your problem will get worse. Heat shields are a common source of rattling. These shields prevent heat transfer into the cabin of the vehicle, the fuel lines and even the gas tank.
Regardless of what they protect, when they come loose, they can make some scary rattles when the engine is under load. Never attempt to inspect or repair the exhaust system when the engine is running or has been recently running.
Portions of the exhaust can remain hot for hours after an engine has been shut off. Inspect your exhaust system from front to back. Heat shields are flexible but are normally mounted so that they cannot move or shift position.
Inspect each heat shield for damage, looseness or wear from contact with another metal surface. Bend or shape any of them, as needed, to prevent metal-on-metal contact. If you fabricate your own, weld or mount the shield so that there is a small air gap between the exhaust and the shield, as well as between the shield and whatever it protects.
As engine speed increases so does the speed of every pulley in the accessory drive system. Loose or even slightly bent pulleys can sound like death at higher speeds, as metal-on-metal contact occurs thousands of times per minute. The easiest way to determine if a bad pulley is the cause of your rattling, is to visually inspect the belt as the engine is running, and when the engine is turned off.
Do not let your clothing, hair or jewelry come into contact with the belt while the engine is running. With the hood open, you may be able to hear the noise at idle and pinpoint the general location.Eap method sim
When the engine is running, a loose pulley will cause the belt to wobble back and forth a little bit. The belt itself will also exhibit damage in the form of frayed sides from being pulled against the sides of the other pulleys. If you think the rattle is in the accessory drive system, remove the belt and spin each pulley by hand. Try wiggling the pulleys to see if you get any movement. Replace any pulley that is loose or wobbles. Ignition pinging is often interpreted as a rattle at first because of the metal-on-metal noise it creates, and it is commonly heard only on acceleration.
Car Problems With a Rattling Sound When Accelerating
Your engine will ping when the air-to-fuel mixture ignites too early inside the combustion chambers; this problem can result in backfiring through the intake manifold, in extreme cases.
If you own a newer vehicle, ignition pinging occurs if you use fuel with too low of an octane rating or if you got stale gas on your last fill. Use a higher octane fuel and see if that remedies the noise on acceleration. If you have an older vehicle with a distributor ignition system, check your engine's spark timing.
If the ignition timing is off, that is likely the source of the pre-ignition. Other sources of rattle can be quite serious, and you may hear even hear it at idle from the engine bay. If the rattling noise sounds like it is coming from either side of the engine, near the top, you just might have some work to do.
Place the handle of a screwdriver up to your ear, and carefully touch the tip of it to each valve cover with the engine running. If you can hear the rattle or chatter through the screwdriver, then you know what side needs work. It could be as simple as adjusting valve lash, or you may need to replace one or more of the rocker arms.
If you are inexperienced or uneasy about taking on a job like this, it is best to leave this repair to professionals. This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
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